This season, Zadig&Voltaire shook off the shackles of traditionalism in lieu of a liberated line up with ample rock ‘n’ roll edge
'Freedom' guided Swedish creative director Cecilia Bönström as she prepared for Zadig&Voltaire’s autumn/winter 2023 collection. The word permeated every aspect of the runway show hosted in a gallery on the outskirts of Paris, with a collection that both up-ended the concept of eveningwear and dared to show off-schedule, passing on Paris Fashion Week. "I like to create pieces that can actually be worn on the streets by men and women," Bönström comments, proven as the brand dressed both male and female models in identical looks.
Building on its signature elevated edge, Zadig&Voltaire took us to the racing track this season. "The inspiration for this show came from two images: a red leather vintage car seat and a female biker wearing a jacket and trousers," says Bönström. "But I also wanted to bring some femininity into this universe with a softer approach.” The images on the mood board translated directly into to a line-up of moto references and an ample amount of leather.
The proverbial cherry on top of this autumn/winter sundae, however, was the cherry red racing suit. Also making its grand debut was the ‘Moon Rock’ bag, paired in a tonal red with the jumpsuit for the runway. "I was inspired by the night, with lots of black and rhinestones and our new moonwalk bag in the shape of a half moon," muses Bönström. "At night, everyone wants to be their true selves. The biker woman still exists but can wear vinyl trousers with a hyper-structured jumper or a super-sheer lingerie dress," she concludes.
Balancing feminine flair with the masculine reference, Bönström reworked the classic moto codes into drapey leather trousers and slouchy leather jackets – both with colourblocked design in petrol blue and in classic black. Ultra-feminine fabrics, such as delicate lace, luscious velvets and sultry silks, were matched with studs, stomper boots and a particularly striking leather trench coat. Having previously designed a crumpled leather material that became iconic for the brand, Bönström wanted to incorporate it and recreate the texture of a man's shirt that was "wrinkled after being worn overnight". "We applied this to shirts, dresses and jackets, but I also brought in vinyl leathers and lambskin to the collection," she says.
See the full collection below:
All the looks from Zadig&Voltaire's AW23 runway show
