Hermès, the French Maison known for its exquisite leather goods, precious silk, and high-end fashion, has carved a distinct niche in Swiss watchmaking, blending technical expertise with a Parisian design ethos
You might already be familiar with this year’s dazzling 'Arceau L’heure de la lune' or the whimsical and enchanting 'Le temps suspendu' from 2011 – two shining examples of Hermès’ creativity and artistry in watchmaking. However, the prestigious French Maison’s watchmaking legacy stretches further back, blending innovation and elegance for over a century.
In 1912, Hermès took its first steps into watchmaking with a clever twist: creating a leather “porte-oignon” bracelet to transform a pocket watch into a wristwatch for Thierry Hermès’ granddaughter, Jacqueline. Little did they know this innovative idea would spark a new chapter in horology.
“Porte-oignon” means “onion holder” in English – a playful nod to the rounded shape of pocket watches, which resembled onions. This leather strap was a simple yet groundbreaking move that blended functionality with French elegance – essentially, the beginning of Hermès’ journey into watch design.
In 1975, Hermès introduced the Kelly watch, named after its iconic Kelly bag and the bag’s signature padlock, which became a statement piece of elegance and practicality. Like many watch brands of the time, Hermès embraced quartz technology for the Kelly, showcasing a fusion of clever design and modern convenience.
Interestingly, Hermès didn’t produce the Kelly watch in-house. It was made by a small independent workshop in Bienne in which Hermès owned a stake before it founded La Montre Hermès in 1978, with the Arceau becoming the first timepiece created under its roof.
The Kelly and Arceau watches remain iconic staples in Hermès' collection, embodying the Maison's enduring appeal.
A lot changed in 2006 as Hermès took a 25% stake in movement manufacturer Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier and in 2012 and 2013, the Maison boosted its watchmaking expertise even further by acquiring two trusted partners: Natéber, a dial specialist from La Chaux-de-Fonds, and Joseph Érard, a case maker based in Le Noirmont.
Hermès’ watch division benefits from the brand’s strong and diverse portfolio. Though still a smaller revenue generator, the watch division has shown remarkable growth, with sales increasing by +72.5% in 2021, +43.1% in 2022, and +13.8% in 2023.
To consolidate everything under one roof, Hermès combined the two sites and opened La Montre Hermès in Le Noirmont in 2017. But it does not stop here. By 2027, the Maison plans to expand its facilities and further integrate its métiers to enhance its manufacturing capabilities.
The Hermès watches are a vibrant blend of Swiss precision and French creative flair, resulting in timepieces that effortlessly marry technical brilliance with playful elegance. Each watch is made with care, using materials like Austrian steel and stamped titanium, ensuring durability and reflecting Hermès' commitment to sustainability by recycling excess material.
The journey of creating a Hérmes watch case is a masterpiece in itself. Up to three months of meticulous stamping are followed by precision CNC machining, enhanced by oil-based cooling techniques. Polishing and buffing, though often overlooked, are treated as an art form at Hermès. Goat hair brushes and diamond powder pastes achieve a stunning mirror-like finish With a touch of historical ingenuity woven in, Hermès masterfully blends heritage and innovation, ensuring every timepiece radiates sophistication and timeless charm.
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The dials, primarily crafted from 95% brass, undergo in-house galvanic baths to achieve mesmerising colours and finishes—a rare practice in the industry where most brands outsource this step. Laser engraving adds intricate details, which are brought to life through skilled hand-finishing, creating dials that captivate with charm and craftsmanship. Hermès watches embody a joyful dance between precision, artistry, and innovation!
Hermès partners with some of the most respected names in watchmaking while developing its in-house capabilities. Since 2015 Hermès has been working with Chronode, which has produced remarkable complications like 'L’heure de la lune'. Hermès' 25% stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier ensures access to cutting-edge mechanical movements.
The final movements, cases, and dials are assembled at the La Montre Hermès workshops in the Brügg facility. Pre-series production involves crafting 50 prototypes to guarantee flawless execution, underscoring Hermès' dedication to precision and aesthetics.
Sustainability is central to Hermès' operations. The Maison constantly innovates to reduce waste, from recycling metal scraps to designing tools for its in-house production. Its commitment to responsible sourcing is evident in its materials and processes, ensuring environmental and ethical integrity.
Of course, no wristwatch would be complete without its strap, and Hermès brings its legendary leather craftsmanship to life at La Montre Hermès facilities. As you step into the strap-making workshop, you're immediately greeted by a vibrant array of colours, with exposed not only leathers but also Hermès silk scarves and intricate leather figures adding to the visual feast. And if that isn't fun enough, the atmosphere is further enhanced by a rotating playlist, with the 30-strong team taking turns as DJ of the day, creating a lively, creative environment where artistry thrives!
The Hermès watch straps are a testament to the Maison's exceptional leather craftsmanship, combining durability, elegance, and sustainability. Saddle stitching, a hallmark of Hermès’ artistry, ensures both strength and refinement. At the same time, leftover leather is cleverly repurposed for padded interiors, known as bombé, highlighting the brand’s commitment to creative sustainability.
Straps made from Barénia calf leather and alligator are treated with custom details, such as polished finishes, to achieve a luxurious sheen. Each strap takes between one and a half to two hours to craft, embodying the meticulous attention to detail that defines Hermès’ exquisite belts and coveted handbags.
Since 2017, this facility has also been the home of Hermès' stunning leather marquetry dials. During my visit, I had the opportunity to explore several extraordinary timepieces featuring these intricate creations. Hermès has showcased its artistic prowess from these facilities through leather marquetry dials crafted in its dedicated facility. These intricate dials begin with a metal base, meticulously overlaid with hand-cut leather pieces, often no larger than a grain of rice.
Each piece is carefully arranged to form lifelike designs, such as the animal motifs in the Slim d'Hermès Les Zèbres de Tanzanie and Arceau Cavale. The result is a three-dimensional masterpiece that transforms each watch into wearable art. These dials are yet another striking example of how Hermès seamlessly integrates its legacy of artistry into its watch collections, elevating timepieces into wrist-worn art pieces.
Hermès watchmaking is a joyful celebration of artistry, precision, and creativity. From the imaginative designs of its iconic timepieces to the impeccable craftsmanship of its cases and straps, Hermès transforms watchmaking into an experience rich with storytelling and emotion. True to its spirit of innovation and elegance, Hermès proves that its creations are not just about technical mastery but about bringing beauty and meaning to every detail. As this article’s headline suggests, Hermès seamlessly blends technique with aesthetics, creating watches that are as enchanting as they are precise.